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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.